Spanish mackerel thick soup

What it is

Pieces of Spanish mackerel, marinated, coated in sweet potato starch and fried until crisp outside and soft inside, served in a thickened broth. The broth is built on garlic and cabbage, and shops may add dried flatfish, bonito or bean sprouts.

Where it comes from

Spanish mackerel was once a winter-only catch from coastal fishing. Smile Taiwan reports that after Anping port opened in 1974 and deep-sea fishing grew, catches rose, prices steadied and the soup became an everyday snack. One Tainan shop dates back to 1936.

How it is made

The fish is cleaned, boned, cut and soaked in a marinade of sugar, salt, garlic and egg, then dusted in sweet potato starch and fried. The broth starts with fried garlic and cabbage, which keeps its colour on long cooking, and is thickened with sweet potato starch.

How to eat it

There is no set time for it. Have it on its own, or with rice noodles, noodles or rice for a fuller meal.

In Tainan

Each Tainan shop has its own style. Kaiyuan, busy day and night for more than four decades, uses bean sprouts and a base of dried plaice, bonito and fried garlic.