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Day trip · Full day · about 11 hours · Sat–Sun only

Milkfish and Oyster Fritters on the Salt Coast

Photo: Pbdragonwang, CC BY-SA 3.0

North-west of Tainan, the coast through Beimen, Jiangjun and Qigu is a flat country of fish ponds, oyster farms and old salt pans. Start with milkfish congee in Xuejia, see the Wang Ye temple at Nankunshen and the tile-paved salt fields at Jingzaijiao, then eat aged milkfish in Beimen and oyster fritters in a Jiangjun fishing village. Finish with seafood beside a fish farm in Qigu.

Getting there

The stops are spread out along the coast, so the whole loop is easiest by car or taxi. Rental cars are available near the train and high-speed rail stations, and filling stations on the coast are few, so fill up before you set off. By bus, take Tainan city bus Blue Trunk Line (藍幹線) from Tainan Station (North Station) to Jiali Transfer Station, then Blue 1 (藍1) or Blue 2 (藍2) to Beimen. Taiwan Tourist Shuttle 98 (Fucheng–Taijiang) runs from Tainan Station to Qigu Salt Mountain, but not every trip goes that far, so check the timetable.

Getting around Tainan: cards, passes and transport tips →

On the way

  • Xuejia Ciji Temple: Xuejia's main temple, a short walk from the congee shop, with more than 200 koji pottery pieces by the 19th-century master Ye Wang.
  • Nankunshen Daitian Temple: A Wang Ye temple of about 300 years on the Beimen coast, known for its jiannian ceramic work and stone carving.
  • Jingzaijiao Tile-paved Salt Fields: Salt pans first laid out in 1818 and partly restored, so visitors can watch salt being dried and raked.
  • Qigu Salt Mountain: A mound of white salt about 20 metres high, left from Taiwan's largest sun-dried salt field, with the Taiwan Salt Museum nearby.
  1. 1

    08:00 · Milkfish & congee

    Yung Tung Milkfish永通虱目魚粥

    Milkfish congee on a fish-bone stock. Add the braised fish head or fish floss rice. The morning session ends around 13:00.

    Mon 15:20–20:30; Tue 05:20–13:00, 15:20–20:30; Wed 15:20–20:30; Thu 05:20–13:00; Fri–Sun 05:20–13:00, 15:20–20:30

  2. 2

    12:00 · Milkfish & congee

    Chang Ying Seafood House田媽媽 長盈海味屋

    Listed as open weekends only, 11:00 to 17:00, so check its Facebook page before you go. Order the aged milkfish fillet. Cash only.

    Sat–Sun 11:00–17:00; closed Mon–Fri

  3. 3

    14:00 · Street snacks

    Hsiu Li Oyster Fritters秀里蚵嗲

    Fritters of oysters farmed at Qingkunshen, with squid and shrimp crisps too. Open 11:00 to 18:00, closed Tuesdays.

    Wed–Mon 11:00–17:30; closed Tue

  4. 4

    17:00 · Seafood

    Black-faced Spoonbill Canteen黑琵食堂

    Milkfish and clams from the owner's ponds. Black-faced spoonbills often feed by the ponds from September to May. Book ahead on holidays. Cash only.

    Daily 11:00–14:30, 16:30–20:00

Days are based on each shop's listed closing days. Buses to smaller towns can be infrequent, so check the timetable the day before. Check before you set off.